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In Germany, stricter corona rules apply again - and again we have to try to stay in a good mood. Best of all with good thoughts and good home-cooked food. This time Christian Kohn gives suggestions on the subject of game.

Status: 02/11/2020

Venison schnitzel in hazelnut pumpkin seed breading

Preliminary remark:
In technical terms, the released skeletal muscles of the rear outer side of the thigh are referred to as the lower shell. It is part of the leg in ruminants. The meat of the lower shell is not quite as fine-grained as that of the upper shell and has a noticeable layer of fat. It is mainly used for roasting and braising. But you can also cut very nice little schnitzel from it. Since it is considered to be inferior in comparison to the premium parts (back, upper shell, etc.), it is significantly cheaper in price.

Ingredients for four people:

  • 12 small deer schnitzel from the lower shell (see also preliminary note)
  • 2 eggs
  • about 10 tbsp pumpkin seeds
  • about 10 tbsp breadcrumbs
  • approx. 10 tbsp hazelnuts, grated
  • approx. 150 g flour
  • 0.5 l frying oil
  • 4 tbsp ghee or clarified butter
  • 100 ml of cream


Remove any tendons etc. from the deer schnitzel. Roughly chop the pumpkin seeds with a large knife or a lightning chopper and mix with the grated hazelnuts and breadcrumbs in a soup plate.
Beat the eggs in a soup plate and mix well with the cream. Put the flour in a third soup plate. Bread the schnitzel (first turn in flour, then pull through the egg-cream mixture, finally toss in the pumpkin seed, hazelnut and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs).
In a large pan, heat the frying oil and ghee to a little more than medium heat. As soon as the fat is hot enough - you can tell this very well when you dip the handle of a wooden spoon into the fat and small bubbles form around the handle - and bake the schnitzel until golden yellow.
Degrease the baked schnitzel on a baking sheet lined with kitchen paper and keep it warm in the oven, preheated to 80 degrees, until all the schnitzel are baked. A salad is an excellent accompaniment to the schnitzel. If you want, you can also add a dollop of homemade currant or blackberry jam as a supplement.

Preliminary remark:
The legs of the chamois are usually not used at all because they are interspersed with many tendons. However, these tendons contain a lot of collagen, which more or less dissolves through the long braising and gives the dish an almost sloppy consistency. In terms of utilizing the whole animal (from nose to tail), this is an ideal dish and, in terms of ingredients, also extremely cheap.

Ingredients for four people:

  • 1.5 kg chamois meat with bone (if possible from the knuckle, i.e. from the lower part of the leg; let your hunter or butcher chop the knuckle through or saw through so that the bone marrow is exposed)
  • 2 medium-sized red onions, finely diced
  • 1 small carrot, finely diced
  • 1/4 small or 1/8 large celeriac, finely diced
  • approx. 0.25 l of good mulled wine
  • approx. 0.25 l dry red wine
  • 1 small shot of gin
  • 1 tbsp powdered sugar
  • 1 tbsp tomato paste
  • 600 ml game stock, if available; Otherwise, beef or veal stock or vegetable stock is also possible
  • approx. 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon of butter for frying
  • 1 teaspoon juniper berries
  • 1 bay leaf
  • approx. 1 tbsp ginger, finely diced
  • 2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
  • 4 prunes, finely diced
  • 1 slice of honey cake, crumbled

Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in as large a pan as possible, gradually fry the meat with the bones in it (there must be space in the pan so that it does not boil in its own juice). Put the seared meat aside. Deglaze the roast with about half of the mulled wine, reduce a little and set aside (will be used later for the sauce).
Heat the butter and remaining oil in a casserole and briefly fry the vegetables, garlic, ginger and plums over medium heat. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and caramelize briefly. Add the tomato paste and roast everything briefly. Deglaze with the rest of the mulled wine and let it boil down slightly.
Add the meat and the extinguished and reduced roast set as well as the game stock and the crumbled honey cake (gives additional taste and nice binding for the sauce), put the lid on and put in the oven at approx. 140 degrees (convection) for approx. 3 hours. The ragout should only simmer slightly, not boil. Put the juniper berries and bay leaves in a spice bag (or a sealable disposable tea bag) and add to the goulash after about half the braising time.
When the meat is done, fish it out of the pot, remove it from the bones and keep warm. Remove the spice sachet. Bring the sauce to the boil, season with salt and pepper and the gin and, if necessary, thicken with a little cornstarch dissolved in red wine. Bring to the boil again until the desired consistency is achieved, add the meat that has been removed and then serve. SpƤtzle, ribbon noodles, gnocchi or bread or pretzel dumplings go well with it.

Capriolo Salmerinato (A regional variant of the Vitello Tonnato)

Preliminary remark:
This dish is a variation of the classic Vitello Tonnato in a version with regional ingredients. The method of preparation is more or less identical, but the taste is completely different.

Ingredients for four people:

  • approx. 400 g deer nut
  • Zest of 1 lemon, peeled thinly, if possible without white skin
  • 200 g mayonnaise
  • 2 smoked sabling fillets, stripped of the skin and torn into large pieces
  • Juice of 1/2 lemon
  • 0.3 l dry white wine
  • 3 El Noilly Prat (Vermouth)
  • Vegetable stock or veal stock
  • 1 teaspoon smoked sea salt
  • 4 teaspoons of capers
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 1 tbsp ghee
  • Salt and pepper from the mill to taste
  • Some flour
  • Frying oil to fry the capers

Lightly salt the meat and fry briefly all around in a mixture of butter and ghee in a saucepan that is not too large, without letting it take on color. Deglaze with Noily Prat and white wine, bring to the boil briefly and then add enough stock until the meat is approx. 80% covered. Add the lemon peel and let it simmer on a low flame for about 30 minutes. Measure the core temperature with a meat thermometer. When it has reached about 58 degrees, take the pan off the heat and let the meat cool in the broth.
During this time, carefully puree the char along with the lemon juice, a small shot of the broth and half of the mayonnaise in a tall, slim vessel with a hand blender to a thick sauce. Stir in the rest of the mayonnaise, season with smoked sea salt, pepper and possibly a little more normal sea salt. If the sauce is too thick, add some broth. Let it steep in the fridge until the meat has cooled down.
The capers can also be fried while the meat has cooled down. To do this, put the capers together with a little flour in a small bowl and stir until they are completely covered with the flour. Pour into a sieve and sieve off the excess flour. Then deep-fry in hot frying oil and degrease on kitchen paper. Slice the cooled meat thinly (preferably with a slicer) and arrange the slices, each slightly overlapping, on a flat dish or on an appetizer plate as a "mirror". Then distribute the sauce carefully and evenly. At the edge, some of the meat should still be visible all around.
Garnish with the capers and some coarsely ground pepper.