The driveway sealing can become bad
Secure the driveway - pavement, gravel and asphalt
The driveway has long since moved away from the purely use status as access to the house, towards a creative design element. In modern buildings, the trend is towards large paving slabs, which are often repeated on the terrace. In contrast, Schotter scores with its flexibility, warm colors and low prices. An asphalt driveway is in no way inferior to this, especially when it comes to withstanding high daily loads without affecting the appearance. There is no doubt that the budget available plays a role in the decision on whether to secure the driveway.
Paving stones are usually made of either cement or natural stones. Cement has the advantage that it is cheaper and can be cut more accurately. However, cement cannot keep up with the natural charm of paving stones made of natural stone. The do-it-yourselfer is spoiled for choice among a multitude of colors, which are ideally matched to the style and color of the house.
- Measure the course of the driveway exactly and mark it with stakes and string.
- Remove the earth and spread a 40 cm thick layer of a mixture of gravel and sand.
- Compress this base course with a vibrating plate.
- A slight slope of 2.5% to the sides prevents rainwater from collecting.
- A gradient in the direction of a public road, on the other hand, endangers the reduction in charges.
- The bedding material for the paving stones is applied over this base layer.
Crushing sand with a grain size of 0-32 mm is the ideal bedding material because it specifically keeps ants away, because pests cannot build homes with such a crumbly material. If you want to be absolutely sure that the surface is straight, pull over it again with an aluminum batten at the end.
Laying paving stones
- Experienced do-it-yourselfers always start laying on a corner.
- With regard to the laying pattern, there are hardly any limits to creativity.
- The joints are ideally aligned with a joint trowel.
- A cord should be stretched lengthways every 3 m for orientation.
- The aluminum rail is used to align the side paving stones.
If the paving stones are delivered in several packages, the experts advise you to mix the stones in order to compensate for any minimal color differences. The do-it-yourself experts also recommend providing the side border with a back support that is sloped upwards. If beautiful field stones are strung together along this boundary, a harmonious look is created.
If pure paving stones or clinker are too sterile for you, choose lawn chamber stones that leave space for green growth. The laying is no different, apart from the sowing of the desired greenery. A creative variant would be, for example, to lay a row of turf chamber stones in the middle of the driveway, which are surrounded by paving stones.
Beautiful laying patterns
The pattern according to which the paving stones are laid needs to be carefully considered, because this is how the surface is defined and accentuated. Some of the most common laying patterns are briefly presented below:
- Row association: The stones are laid in regular rows, slightly offset from one another.
- Cross joint: an exact installation with continuous longitudinal and transverse joints.
- Herringbone bond: Rectangular stones are alternately lined up like a staircase.
- Wild association: paving stones of various formats are creatively connected to one another.
One of the most effective laying patterns is the circle. The entire surface can consist of a single, large circle of paving stones, or small circles are repeatedly integrated into the row or herringbone structure.
Natural stone slabs
Paving stones and clinker give the impression of power and strength. Do-it-yourselfers who prefer a more delicate, discreet appearance for fastening the driveway, choose natural stone slabs. This fascinating building material is available in many designs and colors, such as granite or slate. Marble is out of the question in this case because it is not frost-resistant.
- Dig out the area to be laid to a depth of 80 cm and fill it with a gravel-sand mixture.
- Then carefully compact the whole thing with a vibrating plate.
- Thoroughly clean the natural stone slabs, otherwise the mortar will not stick later.
- Apply a mortar layer of cement and washed pit sand over the gravel bed.
- One part cement is mixed with four parts sand and water and spread 5 cm thick.
- Now the natural stone slabs are laid and tapped with a rubber mallet.
- There must not be any cavities in which water could collect.
Once all the natural stone slabs have been laid, they still have to be grouted. Quartz sand and trass cement are mixed in a ratio of 3: 1. It is then up to the do-it-yourselfer how much water to add. The joint material can be spread with the spatula or simply poured in. Alternatively, ready-made grout, which hardens particularly quickly, can also be used. As soon as the joints are pressure-resistant, they are cleaned with clean water. The final cleaning is only carried out when everything is completely cured.
Gravel, gravel and chippings have always been the most cost-effective way to secure the entrance. No extensive preparatory work is required, and rainwater seeps away in no time at all. An edge attachment is not absolutely necessary, but acts as a decorative highlight and makes the driveway appear noble. In addition, curbs prevent the ballast from sliding to the side. For a long time, lanes, depressions and puddles were listed as disadvantages. In the meantime, these problems have been solved inexpensively and efficiently by distributing the crushed stone, gravel or grit on stabilizing plates. These are honeycomb-shaped plastic panels made from completely reusable material.
Course of work
- Mark the course of the driveway with cord on wooden sticks.
- Dig the surface approx. 35 cm to 40 cm deep with the shovel.
- If necessary, spread out the weed control and fix it with ground anchors.
- Place the curbs or a metal edge and support it from behind.
- Spread a 30 cm thick layer of crushed stone and compact it with the vibrating plate.
- Spread an approx. 6 cm thick layer of laying sand over it, shake it firmly and smooth it out.
- The new type of honeycomb floor will be laid on this area.
- If a cut is necessary, this is done with the help of a foxtail.
- After installation, there must still be enough space for a 2 cm thick layer of crushed stone.
- The crushed stone, gravel or grit is carefully distributed into all the honeycombs with a rake.
The work has been carried out correctly when the stabilization plates are covered with gravel about 2 cm thick at the end. In this case, nobody needs to pay attention to a gradient to prevent rain accumulation, because even the heaviest downpour will seep away in no time.
If a driveway is used particularly frequently, not only by cars but also by trucks, it is advisable to opt for paving with asphalt. In this case, however, extensive preparatory work and special machines are required. A do-it-yourselfer is quickly overwhelmed with the asphalting of his driveway, so it is advisable to contact specialist companies in this case.
- Bitumen gravel is first applied at a depth of 1 meter as a uniform and stable base course.
- This first layer is carefully compacted with a vibrating plate.
- This is followed by the binder course, which is slightly finer-grained than the base course, and is also compacted.
- Only then does the asphalt surface course follow, which is subject to the direct effects.
- It is important to install a water drainage channel so that the rainwater does not build up.
- Which dimensions are to be used and to what extent is a matter for a certified specialist.
In modern methods, the asphalt layer is applied using hot paving. Hot paving is on the decline in public road construction, but it is worth considering in the private sector because it is not exposed to the extreme stresses of road traffic and is accordingly offered at lower prices.
Modeling with colored asphalt
Who says that an asphalt driveway only has to appear in monotonous black or anthracite? Resourceful engineers have succeeded in developing colored asphalt that creates a cheerful appearance. The thin layer of colored asphalt, which is applied in a thickness of 1 cm to 2 cm, is sufficient for the house entrance. The advantage of its composition lies in its flexibility, because no expansion joints can arise. Since at the same time the softening point is over 150 ° Celsius, there will be no ruts either. In this way, a boring, dark asphalt driveway becomes an individual work of art, entirely according to the wishes of the family. In addition, various patented embossing templates are available, which provide additional accents when paving the driveway with asphalt.
frequently asked Questions
Can I save wastewater fees by using infiltration paving stones?
Yes of course. More and more municipalities are opting for the "split wastewater fee". The waste water and rainwater disposal are calculated separately in the fee invoice. If you decide on a paving stone surface that can be seepage, you do not discharge rainwater into the sewer system and thus save or noticeably reduce the rainwater fee.
Which ballast is suitable for paving my driveway and what is the approximate cost?
Natural rock, such as limestone that has been crushed, is known as crushed stone. The largest possible grain size is 63 mm. Ballast comes in a variety of grades and mixes. Basalt gravel with a grain size of 16-32 mm is very popular as a decorative covering for a private driveway. The price for a 25 kg sack is around 6.50 euros plus shipping costs. If you want something more noble material, such as gray glacier gravel, the 25 kg sack costs a whopping 16 euros plus shipping costs.
How is the curb laying done if I want to pave the driveway with gravel?
We recommend placing the molding stones on a 15 cm thick concrete bed. As a rule, 1 m³ of concrete is required for 20 running meters of molding blocks. It is important to note that the stones are sufficiently soaked before grouting. First the joints are sealed vertically with cement mortar, after which the entire joint is filled with thin-bodied mortar. Please note that the width of the concrete base of the kerbstones is 15 cm wider than the stones themselves.
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