Have strawberries seeds

Propagate strawberries: sow nuts & multiply offshoots

Strawberries can be propagated in different ways. In addition to the rapid propagation through cuttings, you can also sow the small nuts.

The tiny yellow-green seeds on the outside of the strawberry (Fragaria) are actually called nuts. Therefore, from a botanical point of view, the strawberry is actually not a berry, but a common nut fruit. Especially in monthly strawberries, which rarely develop runners, these nuts are used for propagation. But all other strawberry plants can theoretically be reproduced via their nuts. However, propagation via runners is far easier and has another significant advantage: The runners (stolons) are, so to speak, clones of the mother plant and thus guarantee the authenticity of the variety. In the following we will show you how to properly propagate strawberries using both nuts and runners.

Propagating strawberries: sow nuts

To obtain the nuts, the skin of the fruit is peeled off thinly and dried. Instead, if all of the fruit is crushed, there is a risk that it will start to rot. When the seeds are dry in June or July, they can then be sown directly. It is advisable to put a few seeds in a pot. This is ideally filled with a 1: 1 mixture of sand and a high-quality organic herb and seed soil. The seeds are only thinly covered with the soil mixture.

Plantura organic herb & seed compost

The optimal germination temperature is between 15 and 18 degrees Celsius in a warm, humid climate. In midsummer in particular, germination is more likely when the pot is not in full sun and is thus better protected from drying out. Germination takes two to four weeks. When the seedlings have developed about three leaves, they can be isolated and planted in more nutrient-rich soil. No more seeds should be sown later than the end of July, because the young plants need a certain size to survive the winter. Sowing in spring is also possible. Monthly strawberries that are sown in spring can produce fruit as early as July.

Summary: Propagating strawberries with nuts:

  • Strawberries that do not form runners, such as some monthly strawberries, can only be propagated in this way
  • The skin of the ripe strawberries is separated and dried
  • Seeds can still be sown again until mid-July, otherwise not until next spring
  • During germination, temperatures between 15 - 18 ° C should prevail (shade if necessary)

Propagate strawberries using runners

The best time to propagate via runners is between the end of July and the beginning of August. All runners that are already rooted can be separated from the tendril to the mother plant, gently dug up and immediately replanted. Kindels that have not yet formed any roots or have hardly developed any roots should be planted in small pots, but still remain connected to the mother plant until the pots are fully rooted.

tip: Strawberries have an increased need for potassium and should therefore be planted in a nutrient-rich soil such as our Plantura organic tomato & vegetable soil.

Plantura organic tomato & vegetable soil

Most strawberry plants have more than one runners. The children growing closest to the mother plant are usually the strongest and largest. These have a higher chance of blooming right next year. It has proven to be advantageous to mark good-tasting, healthy and high-yielding plants with sticks or labels at the time of the strawberry harvest, especially with early-ripening strawberry varieties.

Common mistake: Often plants that bear only a few fruits form most of the kindles. After all, you have energy left over to create this. If one has not marked the well-bearing plants, one tends to multiply the poorly bearing plants with their many children.

If you want to get a particularly large number of cuttings from a plant, you can break off all of the flowering shoots of this plant. In this way the plant does not have to divide its forces between fruit and runners and can form more children. This procedure is practically only possible if a very good harvest was identified and marked on the corresponding plant the year before. Since the yield decreases sharply from the third year in the same bed, this approach is recommended in the third or fourth year in order to plant another bed with the best cuttings. When choosing the new bed, you should make sure that there were no vegetables there that could be attacked by Verticillium wilt (potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage plants, etc.). All runners should be in the new bed by mid-August at the latest. Later, the plants grow poorly.

What to look out for when propagating strawberries through runners:

  • Mark plants with good harvests and tasty fruits with sticks or labels at harvest time
  • Select only children from healthy plants
  • Plant already rooted children directly (between the end of July and mid-August)
  • Plant unrooted runners in a small pot (5 - 10 cm in diameter) and leave to stand for a while with the mother plant; Separate from the mother plant by mid-August at the latest and plant in the bed or overwinter in a pot in the cellar (don't forget to water!)

Here you will find all information on how to overwinter your freshly propagated strawberries and successfully bring them through the cold season.

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I study crop science and have always enjoyed gardening, even if my first attempts as a small child tended to be unsuccessful. With the expertise from my studies, I can now do almost anything - I find topics such as mixed culture, raised beds and composting particularly exciting.
Favorite fruits: cherries, plums and pears
Favorite vegetables: broccoli, Swiss chard and peas